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More than a year after he began pouring his despair into art, Siriano’s brand is experiencing a surge. “Every wedding is back on,” he said. “Red carpets are back.” So is high drama. “I’ve had brides that are like, ‘Never mind, I don’t want a simple dress. I want a ball gown. I want a train.’” But Siriano—who converted his studio into a mask factory during the Original Is this heaven no it’s Iowa field of dreams shirt and I will buy this throes of COVID-19—hasn’t loss his sense of purpose as one of fashion’s most inclusive designers, the one who raised his hand to dress Leslie Jones for the premiere of Ghostbusters in 2016 when the actress said no other designers would, who provided the pioneering Billy Porter an innovative tuxedo-cum-gown for the 2019 Oscars, and who casts models in a full spectrum of sizes on his runway.

“I really decided a while ago that it wasn’t enough just to make beautiful clothes,” Siriano said. “If I was gone tomorrow, what would I leave behind?” He describes himself as instinctual and reactionary (see famously tweeting back at Jones when she issued a cry for help on Twitter). “Brands that, two years later, decide to dress curvy women or have plus-size—that’s not really instinctual.” What compels Siriano to bring body diversity to an industry in which it’s still sorely lacking? Life experience. “The fact that now we go up to a size 28 or, sometimes a size 32, is because I grew up with a mom who was curvy,” he said. “I went to a high school in Baltimore where I was a minority,” among a predominantly Black student body. All the Original Is this heaven no it’s Iowa field of dreams shirt and I will buy this “amazing Black talent,” he says, “all of those things, I think, helped me understand the world a bit more.”

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